The Fes Medina is a living museum, a UNESCO World Heritage site that has remained largely unchanged for over a millennium. Walking through its gates is like stepping back into the Middle Ages. Donkeys haul goods through passages so narrow your shoulders might brush both walls, and the air is a thick mix of cedarwood, incense, and raw leather.
1. The Golden Rule of Navigation: Look Up
In a place where Google Maps often fails because the buildings are too tall and the streets too narrow for a signal, you have to go “old school.” Look for the color-coded signs mounted high on the walls.
- Green signs usually lead to the main gates (like Bab Boujloud).
- Brown signs point toward historical monuments and madrasas. If you follow the flow of the crowd and the slight incline of the ground, you are likely heading toward the “outer” rim of the medina.
2. Decode the “False Guide”
As a tourist, you will be approached by locals offering to lead you to the Tanneries or the “best view.” While many are just being friendly, “false guides” are common. They will lead you through a maze of alleys, eventually demanding a tip or dropping you at a specific carpet shop where they earn a commission.
- The Survival Tip: If you need help, ask a shopkeeper who is sitting inside their stall. They are less likely to leave their merchandise to follow you.
3. The “Balak!” Warning
The most important word you will learn in Fes is “Balak!” It means “Watch out!” or “Move!” You’ll hear it shouted by men pushing heavy carts or leading overburdened donkeys. When you hear it, flatten yourself against the nearest wall immediately. In the medina, the donkeys have the right of way.
4. Finding the Tanneries
The Chouara Tannery is the iconic image of Fes—huge stone vessels filled with colorful dyes. It is notoriously hard to find. You will smell it before you see it (a pungent mix of pigeon droppings and ammonia used to soften the leather). Most shops surrounding the tannery offer “free” balcony views; just be prepared for a polite but firm sales pitch for leather jackets afterward.
5. Embrace the “Lost-ness”
The best things I found in Fes weren’t on my itinerary. I found a 14th-century fountain by taking a wrong turn and stumbled upon a communal bread oven (Farane) by following the smell of toasted dough.
Pro Tip: Always carry the business card of your Riad. If you get truly overwhelmed, give the card to a shopkeeper or a taxi driver at one of the main gates (like Bab Guissa or Bab Boujloud), and they can get you home.
Your Medina Checklist:
- Comfortable shoes: The ground is uneven and can be slippery.
- Small change: For tips or street snacks.
- A sprig of mint: Keep this under your nose when visiting the Tanneries to mask the smell.
- Offline Maps: Download the Fes region on Maps.me before you enter.
